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The
history of dyeing, spinning and weaving, stretches back
into antiquity. The fragments of excavated cloth found
in Mohenjodaro and Harappa in the Indus Valley region
(modern day Pakistan) are the earliest evidence of the
long history of this art in the Asian subcontinent.
These skills of dyeing have been perfected over
centuries. The beautiful colors obtained involving
extremely complex and laborious processes can be viewed
today in many of the antique textiles in museums and
private collections. Until as recently as the 19th
century, all dyeing was of vegetable or mineral origin.
However, the onslaught of chemical dyes in the last
hundred years or so has almost wiped out centuries of
accumulated skills and knowledge in many parts of the
world. Recognition of the loss of cultural heritage and
the environmental hazards involved in the use of
chemical dyes has led Aalamwaar to re-examine the wisdom
of using natural dyes.
The
process of dyeing and printing a piece of cloth is a
long drawn and tedious one that extends over two weeks.
Wooden blocks and screens are used to apply different
patterns. Each piece of fabric is hand dyed in vats. The
recipes date back to hundreds of years and are guarded
secrets handed down in the artisan’s family. The only
exception is a carefully selected apprentice.
Then the cloth is cut and its identity starts taking
shape. It then passes on into the hands of the
embroiderers. At this stage, various techniques are
applied to embellish the cloth with silk threads,
ribbons, beads, buttons, sequins, mirrors and tassels
creating textures and combinations that are a delight to
the eyes. In the final finishing stages they are sewn by
highly skilled tailors who bring to life these works of
art.
Aalamwaar was founded in 1996 as a co-op for the
artisans involved in preservation of arts of natural
dyeing. Slowly yet steadily our group of artisans has
been growing. With them, these artisans bring a wider
range of techniques and skills that have taken centuries
to evolve. Not only are we helping keep the dyeing
textile arts alive, but we have also been involved in
the revival of some of these age old techniques.
Empowering women by teaching them skills is one of our
objectives. We have also started funding some of their
children’s education.
As
much as we can, we try to source our raw materials from
other socially responsible groups called
non-governmental organizations (NGOs). Aalamwaar’s lines
of fashionable apparel and home furnishings combine
environmentally friendly fabrics and responsible
production.
We
have recently added hand painted fabrics to our
repertoire of textiles. Some of the painters are award
winning artisans who have been recognized by the Crafts
Council of India. These artisans live in a remote part
of South India which has been made famous as it
intercepted well known trade routes dating back to the
early 17th century. Srikalahasti, is a
small town known for its temples and painters of cloth.
Originally these painted cloths or story boards told the
stories of epics and heroes of ancient times.
Our
outreach program involves and promotes these talented
craft persons who now paint fabrics that are
incorporated into Aalamwaar’s collections. Since its
inception, the passion for search, documentation and
reinterpretation of dying textile arts has been a
continuous and ongoing effort for the team at Aalamwaar.
With environment and sustainability as our priorities,
Aalamwaar’s textiles are a testament to socially
responsible business practices.
Join us in celebrating and continuing this journey of
human ingenuity and imagination into the world of
naturally dyed textiles.
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